How can I prevent a septic system failure?

• Regular maintenance is the best method to prevent a septic system failure. Septic maintenance includes inspecting the entire system every 1 to 3 years and pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years. The frequency for pumping the septic tank depends on the tank size, number of people in the household, the water habits and use, if a garbage disposal is used, and the amount of solids accumulated in the tank. A rule of thumb is to pump the tank when the solids are two-thirds of the volume in the tank. Routine maintenance is the responsibility of the home or property owner. If you rent a home, you have responsibility for the proper use and operation of the system.
• In general, you can avoid a septic system failure by:
  • Inspecting your system every 1 to 3 years
  • Pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years or as needed
  • Avoiding excess water use (e.g. spreading out laundry use over the week)
  • Flushing only human waste and toilet paper down the toilet.

What are common signs of a failing septic system?

• Water and sewage from toilets, drains, and sinks backing up into the home’s plumbing
• Bathtubs, showers, and sinks draining very slowly
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system
• Standing water or damp spots near or over the septic tank or drain field
• Sewage odors around the septic tank or drainfield
• Bright green, spongy lush grass over the septic tank or drainfield, even during dry weather
• Straight pipe discharging untreated wastewater to the ground surface
• Algae blooms in nearby lakes or water bodies
• High levels of nitrates or coliform bacteria in surface waters or drinking water wells

If I smell a foul odor coming from my septic system, does that mean my system is failing?

• There may be several reasons for the smell, which can occur inside or outside your home. If you notice an odor, it may be coming from a roof vent or other vent pipe that allows the system pressure to equalize. This is a normal part of your system. Sometimes these vents can become obstructed and clogged (from leaves, debris, etc.) or the vent pipe can freeze during prolonged cold spells. These situations could cause an odor inside or outside of your home. Another possibility is a downdraft (changes to wind pattern) or other location-specific conditions, which can create an odor inside or outside your home. In these cases, the vent may need to be cleaned or raised. There are charcoal filters available for roof vents that may also alleviate the odors.
• If your drainfield is not working properly, that could be another reason you smell an odor inside your home or around the septic system. Soft, wet, or spongy soil (especially when there have been no significant rainfall events) around your drainfield is a good indication of a system failure.
• It is not possible to diagnose the exact cause of an odor remotely. EPA recommends you contact a local septic system service provider and/or plumber to address the issue.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov

What should I expect in a typical septic system inspection?

• Septic system inspections are a vital step in making sure your system is operating properly. Regular inspections ensure you and your family do not get sick due to a leak or other problems with your septic system. Since these wastewater systems are located underground, homeowners may overlook having a septic inspection. Routine inspections help prevent expensive repairs to your system or avoid a sewage backup in your home. In many states, a septic system must be inspected with the transfer of real estate. However, it is not only when you are buying a home that these inspections are needed. Septic system inspections should be done every 1 to 3 years for as long as you own your home.

In general, an inspection will involve the following:

• Review of the system permit, design, and installation records (including system age)
• Review of the septic tank pumping and system maintenance records
• Opening and inspecting all tanks (septic tank, pump tank, distribution box)
• Evaluating the septic tank sludge and scum levels and determining the need to pump
• Assessing the condition of the septic tank effluent filter (if installed)
• Looking for signs of leakage, such as low water levels in the tank
• Looking for signs of backup, such as staining in the tank above the outlet pipe
• Evaluating the integrity of the tank, inlet and outlet pipes and looking for signs of corrosion
• Verifying all electrical connections, pumps, controls, and wiring are intact
• Possibly using a camera to look at solid pipes and leach lines for blockages or collapsed piping
• Evaluating the drainfield for signs of system failure, such as standing water (surfacing) or unequal drainage
• Possibly excavating parts of the drainfield to look for signs of ponding in the system or groundwater impacting the drainfield
• Examining the distribution box for structural integrity and to make sure drain lines are receiving equal flow
• Reviewing other available records on water use and required inspections, monitoring, and reporting to ensure system compliance with local regulations regarding function and permit conditions.
• EPA’s Quick Tip Video walks through a typical inspection, “Protect It and Inspect It!”

Contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov

Where can I find information on my septic system?

Please contact your local health department for additional advice and assistance. For more information on onsite or decentralized wastewater systems, you can visit EPA's Septic Systems Web site.

Do I pump my tank during flooded or saturated drainfield conditions?

No! At best, pumping the tank is only a temporary solution. Under worst conditions, pumping it out could cause the tank to try to float out of the ground and may damage the inlet and outlet pipes. The best solution is to plug all drains in the basement and drastically reduce water use in the house.

What if my septic system has been used to dispose wastewater from my business (either a home-based or small business)?

In addition to raw sewage, small businesses may use their septic system to dispose of wastewater containing chemicals. If your septic system that receives chemicals backs up into a basement or drain field take extra precautions to prevent skin, eye and inhalation contact. The proper clean-up depends of what chemicals are found in the wastewater. Contact your State or EPA for specific clean-up information.

What do I do with my septic system after the flood?

Once floodwaters have receded, there are several things homeowners should remember:

1. Do not drink well water until it is tested. Contact your local health department.
2. Do not use the sewage system until water in the soil absorption field is lower than the water level around the house.
3. Have your septic tank professionally inspected and serviced if you suspect damage. Signs of damage include settling or an inability to accept water. Most septic tanks are not damaged by flooding since they are below ground and completely covered. However, septic tanks and pump chambers can fill with silt and debris, and must be professionally cleaned. If the soil absorption field is clogged with silt, a new system may have to be installed.
4. Only trained specialists should clean or repair septic tanks because tanks may contain dangerous gases. Contact your health department for a list of septic system contractors who work in your area.
5. If sewage has backed up into the basement, clean the area and disinfect the floor. Use a chlorine solution of a half cup of chlorine bleach to each gallon of water to disinfect the area thoroughly.
6. Pump the septic system as soon as possible after the flood. Be sure to pump both the tank and lift station. This will remove silt and debris that may have washed into the system. Do not pump the tank during flooded or saturated drainfield conditions. At best, pumping the tank is only a temporary solution. Under worst conditions, pumping it out could cause the tank to try to float out of the ground and may damage the inlet and outlet pipes.
7. Do not compact the soil over the soil absorption field by driving or operating equipment in the area. Saturated soil is especially susceptible to compaction, which can reduce the soil absorption field's ability to treat wastewater and lead to system failure.
8. Examine all electrical connections for damage before restoring electricity.
9. Be sure the septic tank's manhole cover is secure and that inspection ports have not been blocked or damaged.
10. Check the vegetation over your septic tank and soil absorption field. Repair erosion damage and sod or reseed areas as necessary to provide turf grass cover.

Remember: Whenever the water table is high or your sewage system is threatened by flooding there is a risk that sewage will back up into your home. The only way to prevent this backup is to relieve pressure on the system by using it less.

1. What are some suggestions offered by experts for homeowners with flooded septic systems?
2. Use common sense. If possible, don't use the system if the soil is saturated and flooded. The wastewater will not be treated and will become a source of pollution. Conserve water as much as possible while the system restores itself and the water table fails.
3. Prevent silt from entering septic systems that have pump chambers. When the pump chambers are flooded, silt has a tendency to settle in the chambers and will clog the drainfield if it is not removed.
4. Do not open the septic tank for pumping while the soil is still saturated. Mud and silt may enter the tank and end up in the drainfield. Furthermore, pumping out a tank that is in saturated soil may cause it to "pop out" of the ground. (Likewise, recently installed systems may "pop out" of the ground more readily than older systems because the soil has not had enough time to settle and compact.)
5. Do not dig into the tank or drainfield area while the soil is still wet or flooded. Try to avoid any work on or around the disposal field with heavy machinery while the soil is still wet. These activities will ruin the soil conductivity.
6. Flooding of the septic tank will have lifted the floating crust of fats and grease in the septic tank. Some of this scum may have floated and/or partially plugged the outlet tee. If the septic system backs up into the house check the tank first for outlet blockage. Clean up any floodwater in the house without dumping it into the sink or toilet and allow enough time for the water to recede. Floodwaters from the house that are passed through or pumped through the septic tank will cause higher flows through the system. This may cause solids to transfer from the septic tank to the drainfield and will cause clogging.
7. Locate any electrical or mechanical devices the system may have that could be flooded to avoid contact with them until they are dry and clean.
8. Aerobic plants, upflow filters, trickling filters, and other media filters have a tendency to clog due to mud and sediment. These systems will need to be washed and raked.

To get your septic system professionally inspected, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov

Most of your septic system is sealed and unaffected by heavy rain, but one part — the drain field — is not, and a heavy rain can definitely affect it. If it has been raining particularly hard and there's a pond forming in your drain field, you may experience the symptoms of a blocked septic system. The best course of action is to reduce water consumption in the house until things dry out.

Symptoms of a Flooded Septic System

You don't need anyone to tell you when it has been raining hard, but you may not recognize the symptoms of a flooded system at first. As the soil in the drain field becomes saturated, septic water can't soak in, and it may rise to the surface and create an odor. As the condition worsens, water backs up into the tank, and if you have a transfer pump, the pump may start running continuously. Eventually, because the water has nowhere else to go, it ends up in your plumbing. You'll notice slow draining, poor toilet flushing, and, in extreme circumstances, overflow from floor and shower drains and even from toilets on the ground floor.

How to Handle Septic Flooding

If you notice puddles and septic tank odor during a heavy rain, reduce water in the drain field by rerouting any roof drainage that goes there. Temporarily shut off the power to the transfer pump in the tank, if you have one. This not only saves electricity, it prevents the pump from burning out. You should reduce water usage in the house to what's absolutely essential, because every time water goes down the drain, it adds to the excess in the tank. Take short showers or use a no-rinse body wash, flush toilets as seldom as possible, and avoid using the dishwasher and washing machine.

To get your septic system professionally inspected, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: hunker.com

If you need to hire someone to inspect or repair your septic system, this guide will help you make informed decisions.

Why You Need to Inspect Your Septic System

Failing septic systems and cesspools can contaminate drinking water, shellfish beds, and beaches. Title 5 of the State Environmental Code protects us by requiring inspection of private sewage disposal systems. Local boards of health receive these inspection reports. Most systems will pass inspection. Title 5 requires the replacement or upgrade of systems that fail.

If you own a home with a septic system or cesspool and plan to put it up for sale, add a bedroom, or change its use, you will need to get a system inspection. This information will help you make the right decisions about who to hire and how to finance repairs.

You'd Better Shop Around

When you need to hire a system inspector, there are two important things to remember:

1. MassDEP does not regulate inspection fees, nor does any other state agency. Inspectors can charge whatever their customers are willing to pay. The fee also may vary depending on the complexity of the inspection.
2. Only certain professionals may perform Title 5 system inspections:
   • Professionals who meet experience requirements and have passed a MassDEP-administered exam;
   • Registered Sanitarians;
   • Certified Health Officers; and
   • Registered Professional Engineers who specialize in civil, environmental or sanitary engineering.

   For a list of qualified system inspectors in your area, contact your local Board of Health. You can also see lists of approved system inspectors on the New England Interstate Water Pollution Control website.

   Before hiring anyone, do some comparison shopping:

   • Get written estimates from several inspectors. Ask them whether the price of the inspection includes pumping the system; often it does not.
   • Ask for and check each inspector's identification and references.
   • Before signing a contract, be certain that it spells out the work plan, the cost and payment terms, and any guarantees the inspector is willing to provide.
   • Once the inspection is complete, make sure the person who signs the form is the same person who conducted the inspection.

   What to Do if Your System Fails

   If your system fails inspection, Title 5 allows up to 2 years to complete repairs or an upgrade. The first thing you should do is contact your local board of health, which needs to approve all upgrades and most repairs. The board of health will tell you what you will need to do.

   Again, shop around. Get written estimates, check qualifications and references. Remember that you are under no obligation to have the person who inspects your system perform any other work on it. In fact, you may want to hire separate contractors. While most septic system professionals are honest, as in any other profession there may be a few "bad apples" who try to take advantage of the consumer. If you have a complaint, contact your MassDEP regional office and speak to the staff responsible for Title 5. If you receive an inspection report that appears to have been altered or contains false or misleading information, call the Massachusetts Environmental Strike Force at 617-556-1000 or toll free at 1-888-VIOLATE (1-888-846-5283).

   Repair or upgrade costs will vary depending on the nature of the problem, soil conditions, distance to water supplies, and the size of the lot. Title 5 does not specify who must pay for the system inspections, repairs or upgrades. Keep that in mind if you are planning to sell your home. You may find during negotiations that the prospective buyer is willing to assume some or all of the costs. Be sure to consult with a lawyer or mortgage lender who is familiar with Title 5 before closing the deal.

   Even if you plan to stay in the home, you may qualify for financial aid programs for septic system or cesspool repair or replacement:

   • Many cities and towns have "betterment" programs for long-term, low-cost financing.
   • State law provides for a system repair tax credit of up to $6,000 per homeowner.
   • The Massachusetts Housing Finance Agency (MHFA) offers septic-system repair loans.
   • USDA Rural Development offers single-family housing repair loans and grants.

   To get your system professionally inspected by contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Septic system inspections are a vital step in making sure your system is operating properly. Regular inspections ensure you and your family do not get sick due to a leak or other problems with your septic system. Since these wastewater systems are located underground, homeowners may overlook having a septic inspection. Routine inspections help prevent expensive repairs to your system or avoid a sewage backup in your home. In many states, a septic system must be inspected with the transfer of real estate. However, it is not only when you are buying a home that these inspections are needed. Septic system inspections should be done every 1 to 3 years for as long as you own your home.

In general, an inspection will involve the following:

• Review of the system permit, design, and installation records (including system age)
• Review of the septic tank pumping and system maintenance records
• Opening and inspecting all tanks (septic tank, pump tank, distribution box)
• Evaluating the septic tank sludge and scum levels and determining the need to pump
• Assessing the condition of the septic tank effluent filter (if installed)
• Looking for signs of leakage, such as low water levels in the tank
• Looking for signs of backup, such as staining in the tank above the outlet pipe
• Evaluating the integrity of the tank, inlet and outlet pipes and looking for signs of corrosion
• Verifying all electrical connections, pumps, controls, and wiring are intact
• Possibly using a camera to look at solid pipes and leach lines for blockages or collapsed piping
• Evaluating the drainfield for signs of system failure, such as standing water (surfacing) or unequal drainage
• Possibly excavating parts of the drainfield to look for signs of ponding in the system or groundwater impacting the drainfield
• Examining the distribution box for structural integrity and to make sure drain lines are receiving equal flow
• Reviewing other available records on water use and required inspections, monitoring, and reporting to ensure system compliance with local regulations regarding function and permit conditions.

To get your system professionally inspected by  contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: epa.gov

Hurricane season preparation for septic systems makes more sense when you understand the risks. The hurricane season officially starts next month, and there are some things you need to know before a major storm threatens the local area.

Hurricane impact on Septic Systems

For any type of onsite sewage system, conventional or alternative, a hurricane or flood could submerge the system. If your system is submerged, the excess water may cause a backup of sewage into the house. Look for sewage backups in the plumbing fixtures at the lowest elevations in your house as your first indication.

Flooding can wash soil away from the septic tank, drain field lines or other components, causing damage to the components or introducing raw or partially treated sewage into the yard. Flooding may also cause the onsite sewage system to operate sluggishly because the soil in the dispersal area is saturated.

If your septic tank/drain field system is damaged by the storm or if the soil is saturated, minimize water use within the house to prevent raw sewage from discharging to the ground surface. Minimize contact with sewage contaminated waters. Use gloves and protective gear and wash any exposed skin with soap and water as soon as possible. Disinfect any exposed human contact surfaces with diluted bleach water.

Onsite sewage systems may fail to operate properly during power outages that are common during hurricane season. Pumps won’t work without power, but most onsite sewage systems with a pump should have 100-200 gallons storage capacity above the high-level alarm. Exceeding this storage capacity could cause the pump chamber to overflow, spilling raw sewage on the ground.

If you face this situation, use water sparingly and call Wind River Environmental for a full inspection as soon as the water recedes and power returns.

What Do I Need to Prepare My Septic System For Hurricane Season?

Hurricane preparations for septic systems should start before an emergency:

• Seal the manhole and/or inspection ports to keep excess water out of the septic tank
• Be sure your septic tank is at least half full with effluent to prevent it from collapsing or floating
• If your septic system requires electricity,
  • Turn off the pump at the circuit box before the area floods
  • Waterproof all electrical connections to avoid electrical shock or damage to wiring, pumps, and the electrical system
  • Consider a power generator to run the lift station and prevent a backup into the house

Septic System Care After A Hurricane

Precautions related to septic systems include:

• Avoid contact with any septic system electrical devices until they are dry and clean.
• Do not pump out the septic tank more than halfway or the tank may float out of the ground until the water table returns to normal.
• Reduce all nonessential water use (for example, dish washing, washing clothes, showering).
• Flush toilets as little as possible or use a temporary toilet.

If you suspect septic system damage, get the system professionally inspected by contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: wrenvironmental.com

My septic system failed. What do I do now?

If the inspection fails, your septic system must be repaired or replaced. If ownership of the house is not being changed, the homeowner may have up to two years to complete the repair. However, if the Health Agent deems the failure to be a health hazard, the homeowner can be required to begin the process of repairing it immediately.

Failed septic systems can be handled in a real estate sales transaction in two ways. First, the seller can undertake the work and complete it prior to closing, with a full sign off from the Board of Health. This is often the preferable course for all parties and the lender. Alternatively, the parties can agree to an escrow holdback to cover the cost of the septic repair plus a contingency reserve, and the work is undertaken after the closing. Some lenders don’t allow septic holdbacks, however.

What are the steps and permitting fees to install a new septic system?

The first step in beginning a septic repair is to hire an engineer to evaluate your land and to design a system that would be appropriate for your property. Once the engineer is hired, a percolation or “perc” test is scheduled. The perc test measures the rate at which water is absorbed into the ground and determines whether the soil is suitable for a septic system. Based on the results of the perc test, the size of your lot, and the number of bedrooms in your home, the engineer designs a septic system to serve the property. Once the plans have been drawn, four copies of the plans, two copies of the soil analysis, and a fee must be submitted to the Board of Health office. The BOH has 45 days to review the plans and to either approve or reject them. If the plans are approved, the plans can be picked up and the installation of the system can begin. If the plans are rejected, the plans must be revised and an additional fee is charged to have them reviewed again. If the designed system requires state variances (done by the Department of Environmental Protection), an additional 90 days must be allotted for the review process.

When the job is completed is there any form of certification that it has been done and that it meets Title V standards?

At the completion of the job, (that is, when all work has been done according to the plans; when the engineer has submitted an “as-built” plan as to where the system was installed; and when the installer has submitted a certification statement), the Health Agent signs a Certificate of Compliance, (COC), which is issued to the installer. Upon payment for the work, the installer gives the COC to the homeowner.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mvbuyeragents.com

Whether you're building a new septic system or upgrading an existing one, there are Title 5 requirements that apply to new construction.

If you are building a new septic system or upgrading an existing one, there are Title 5 requirements that must be followed in order to prevent damage to human health and the environment.

System owner's responsibilities

Whether or not you are the person actually doing the construction, it is always the system owner's responsibility to ensure things are done in accordance with Title 5 regulations. If you have questions related to building or expanding a new Title 5 system, you should contact your local Board of Health directly as they are the primary regulatory authority for new construction.

For new construction of a system, the first step is to go to your local Board of Health as well as your local Building Department. You will need to obtain permits from both separately. You should initially provide each department with a verbal explanation of what you're proposing.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov

Why can't I put my soil absorption system (SAS) under my driveway?

Title 5 precludes using area under a driveway for a soil absorption system unless restrictions on the land leave no other feasible option. Impervious areas such as driveways or parking lots restrict air passing through the soils. In addition, the weight of the cars can compact the soil and may break distribution pipes. Lack of oxygen prevents the degradation of the septic tank effluent in the soil, and compaction reduces flow, making the system likely to clog and fail. Soil absorption systems which are placed under driveways are required, by 310 CMR 15.240 (7), to be vented to the atmosphere. Additional standards apply to system components in areas where automobile or other heavy equipment is anticipated. How far away from property lines and existing buildings does my septic system need to be? h3

Title 5 (310 CMR 15.211) lists minimum setback distances, and the local Board of Health can provide more information about your particular situation.

I am thinking about adding living space to my home (family room, garage, etc), but I'm maintaining the same number of bedrooms. Am I required to have a Title 5 inspection to get a building permit? h3

A system must be inspected upon any change of use or expansion of use for which a building permit or occupancy permit is required. However, if the change of use or expansion does not increase the existing design flow, the requirement is for an assessment only, in order to determine the location of all system components, including the reserve area. This will ensure that the proposed construction is not placed on top of any system components. The requirement for an assessment can be waived if an official record exists that shows the location of system components as they relate to the proposed construction. (310 CMR 15.301(5).

Contact your local board of health to verify if local regulations require a full inspection.

Can a Board of Health require the replacement of an undersized septic tank?

Yes, if its continued use will jeopardize the soil absorption system or the environment. Any tank smaller than 1000 gallons may be judged to be too small, depending on individual circumstances.

Does a Board of Health have to issue a Disposal System Construction Permit (DSCP) for the replacement of a single component such as a Distribution Box or septic tank? h3

Yes. Title 5 allows system components to be replaced without replacing the entire system, but requires a DSCP and a Certificate of Compliance once the work is done (see Conditional Pass).

What are the advantages of pressure distribution for a septic system with a pump?

Although Title 5 does not require it, pressure distribution for systems with pumps generally results in a more efficient and longer-lasting system. Pressure distribution can be especially important when a reduction in distance to ground water is being requested for a mounded system.

Is it legal for the Board of Health to restrict the use of mounded systems for new construction?

Communities may have requirements more restrictive than DEP's provided correct procedures are followed in adopting them (310 CMR 15.003 (3)).

A property owner with a failing septic system is in the process of obtaining local approvals for an upgrade. In the meantime, the system is experiencing breakouts of sewage onto the ground. What should be done in the interim?

Breakout of sewage onto the ground is a significant threat to public health and the environment, and the Board of Health should take immediate action to address the situation. Interim steps could include requiring the system owner to seal off any discharges from the septic tank and begin a pumping program with a licensed septage hauler. Ultimately, responsibility for the failing system falls on the system owner, but Boards of Health have primary responsibility for enforcing Title 5 in order to ensure public health and safety.

Can MassDEP recommend a certified soil laboratory?

No. Massachusetts does not certify soils testing laboratories. You can inquire with your local Board of Health on any local labs that may provide that service or check the yellow pages under "testing laboratories".

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov