How do I find a copy of my septic system's design?

Typically, a septic system is permitted and inspected by your local permitting authority, most often the local health or environmental department. You can contact them to obtain a copy of your property’s septic record drawing (the “as-built” design) and copies of the permit. The permit may also have additional information on your system, such as the date of installation, soil properties, etc.

Where should septic tanks be placed?

Your local health department may have septic tank placement requirements and a minimum setback distance from your foundation. Typically, it should be located on level ground so solids can settle in the tank. The location of the plumbing outlet usually dictates where the tank is located and depth of the tank to account for adequate slope on the inlet pipe. Septic tanks should be placed away from areas subject to flooding and surface water ponding. The tank should be properly vented. Avoid steep slopes and areas of dense tree roots or other obstructions. Also, place the septic tank where it is accessible for future inspections and pump outs.

How close can a septic tank be to a property line?

Isolation distances from septic tanks to property lines are typically part of local or state permitting regulations. Contact your local permitting authority which is most often the local health or environmental department for specific requirements in your area. Your local zoning regulations may also include setbacks to various features like buildings and property lines.

How do I get a permit for the repair, new construction, or replacement of a septic system?

A septic system permit is issued by your local permitting authority which is most often the local health or environmental department. You can apply for the permit yourself, or the contractor hired to build the system can obtain it on your behalf. Check with your local municipality in the event they also require additional permits to install your system.

Is one type of septic system better than another?

The type of septic system for your home depends on a variety of factors, such as lot size, ground slope, soil conditions, size of the home/occupancy, local/state regulations, and your budget. Some properties can be served by a conventional gravity septic tank and drainfield, while others may require advanced technologies for wastewater treatment or alternate drainfields – like low pressure pipe or drip distribution systems. For more information on the most common types of septic systems, visit EPA's Types of Septic Systems. Some advanced treatment systems have test results demonstrating their treatment performance.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: epa.gov

If the amount of wastewater entering the system is more than the system can handle, the wastewater backs up into the house or yard and creates a health hazard.

You can suspect a system failure not only when a foul odor is emitted but also when partially treated wastewater flows up to the ground surface. By the time you can smell or see a problem, however, the damage might already be done.

By limiting your water use, you can reduce the amount of wastewater your system must treat. When you have your system inspected and pumped as needed, you reduce the chance of system failure.

A system installed in unsuitable soils can also fail. Other failure risks include tanks that are inaccessible for maintenance, drainfields that are paved or parked on, and tree roots or defective components that interfere with the treatment process.

Failure symptoms

The most obvious septic system failures are easy to spot. Check for pooling water or muddy soil around your septic system or in your basement. Notice whether your toilet or sink backs up when you flush or do laundry. You might also notice strips of bright green grass over the drainfield. Septic systems also fail when partially treated wastewater comes into contact with groundwater. This type of failure is not easy to detect, but it can result in the pollution of wells, nearby streams, or other bodies of water. Check with a septic system professional and the local health department if you suspect such a failure.

Failure causes

Household toxics

Oil-based paints, solvents, and large volumes of toxic cleaners should not enter your septic system. Even latex paint cleanup waste should be minimized. Remember that your septic system contains a living collection of organisms that digest and treat waste.

Household cleaners

For the most part, your septic system’s bacteria should recover quickly after small amounts of household cleaning products have entered the system. Of course, some cleaning products are less toxic to your system than others. Labels can help key you into the potential toxicity of various products. The word “Danger” or “Poison” on a label indicates that the product is highly hazardous. “Warning” tells you the product is moderately hazardous. “Caution” means the product is slightly hazardous. (“Nontoxic” and “Septic Safe” are terms created by advertisers to sell products.) Regardless of the type of product, use it only in the amounts shown on the label instructions and minimize the amount discharged into your septic system.

Hot tubs

Your septic system was not designed to handle large quantities of water from your hot tub. Emptying hot tub water into your septic system stirs the solids in the tank and pushes them out into the drainfield, causing it to clog and fail. Draining your hot tub into a septic system or over the drainfield can overload the system. Use the same caution when draining your swimming pool.

Water Purification Systems

Some freshwater purification systems, including water softeners, unnecessarily pump water into the septic system. This can contribute hundreds of gallons of water to the septic tank, causing agitation of solids and excess flow to the drainfield. Check with your licensed plumbing professional about alternative routing for such freshwater treatment systems.

Garbage disposals

Eliminating the use of a garbage disposal can reduce the amount of grease and solids entering the septic tank and possibly clogging the drainfield. Using a garbage disposal frequently can significantly increase the accumulation of sludge and scum in your septic tank, resulting in the need for more frequent pumping.

Improper design or installation

Some soils provide excellent wastewater treatment; others don’t. For this reason, the design of the drainfield of a septic system is based on the results of soil analysis. Homeowners and system designers sometimes underestimate the significance of good soils or believe soils can handle any volume of wastewater applied to them. Many failures can be attributed to having an undersized drainfield or high seasonal groundwater table. Undersized septic tanks—another design failure—allow solids to clog the drainfield and result in system failure.

If a septic tank isn’t watertight, water can leak into and out of the system. Usually, water from the environment leaking into the system causes hydraulic overloading, taxing the system beyond its capabilities and causing inadequate treatment and sometimes sewage to flow up to the ground surface. Water leaking out of the septic tank is a significant health hazard because the leaking wastewater has not yet been treated.

Even when systems are properly designed, failures due to poor installation practices can occur. If the drainfield is not properly leveled, wastewater can overload the system. Heavy equipment can damage the drainfield during installation which can lead to soil compaction and reduce the wastewater infiltration rate. And if surface drainage isn’t diverted away from the field, it can flow into and saturate the drainfield.

Source: epa.gov

When septic systems are properly designed, constructed, and maintained, they effectively reduce or eliminate most human health or environmental threats posed by pollutants in household wastewater. However, they require regular maintenance or they can fail. Septic systems need to be monitored to ensure that they work properly throughout their service lives.

Saving money

A key reason to maintain your septic system is to save money! Failing septic systems are expensive to repair or replace, and poor maintenance is often the culprit. Having your septic system inspected regularly is a bargain when you consider the cost of replacing the entire system. Your system will need pumping depending on how many people live in the house and the size of the system. An unusable septic system or one in disrepair will lower your property value and could pose a legal liability.

Protecting health and the environment

Other good reasons for safe treatment of sewage include preventing the spread of infection and disease and protecting water resources. Typical pollutants in household wastewater are nitrogen, phosphorus, and disease-causing bacteria and viruses. If a septic system is working properly, it will effectively remove most of these pollutants.

With one-fourth of U.S. homes using septic systems, more than 4 billion gallons of wastewater per day is dispersed below the ground’s surface. Inadequately treated sewage from septic systems can be a cause of groundwater contamination. It poses a significant threat to drinking water and human health because it can contaminate drinking water wells and cause diseases and infections in people and animals. Improperly treated sewage that contaminates nearby surface waters also increases the chance of swimmers contracting a variety of infectious diseases. These range from eye and ear infections to acute gastrointestinal illness and diseases like hepatitis.

Source: epa.gov

There are two types of septic inspections.

Visual Inspections

When buying or selling a house, the home inspector will usually complete a visual inspection.

A visual inspection involves asking a few questions, such as how old the house is, how often the owner pumps the septic system, and when the last inspection was. The inspector will then flush all the toilets and run all the water in the house to make sure the water pressure is up to par and everything is draining properly. Finally, the inspector will go out to the drain field to make sure there is no standing water, which can indicate a cesspool.

A visual inspection is helpful and quick, but a full inspection can really tell you the real story behind the health of the septic system.

Full Inspections

A full inspection includes everything a visual inspection includes, but it also goes the extra mile. This inspection is the one you'll want to get done every three to five years.

In a full inspection, inspectors will remove the cover to the septic tank and check the water level. The water level can or show whether the water is draining properly. The inspector will then run water in the house to make sure it is properly flowing from the house to the septic tank, and to make sure the water level within the tank does not rise when they introduce more water.

The inspector may use a dye test during this part of their inspection. In a dye test, the inspector will introduce dye into the water that is being drained to see how much of it enters the septic tank.

From there, the septic tank will get pumped and the inspector will check for any backflow from the absorption area. The backflow level tells the inspector if there is a problem with your drain field. The flow level is then checked again to make sure every aspect of the septic system is in working order and there are no blockages.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: listwithclever.com

Sewage inflow

Maximum sewage flows into a septic tank is based upon a number of plumbing fixtures and discharging simultaneously.

The estimated number of fixtures serving 50 people for residential colonies up to 300 for boarding schools is estimated from peak discharge tables.

Sedimentation

For a standard temperature of 25⁰C, 10 liters per minute flow rate and 0.92 m2 surface area are required.

For 0.05 mm size particle removal, more than 75% sewage of specific gravity 1.2 mm and a minimum depth of 25-30 cm is required.

Sludge digestion

The suspended solids entering the may be taken as 70 gm per day per capita.

Assume 60% of solid removed along with fresh sludge with 5% solid content.

The volume of fresh sludge may be taken as 0.0083 m3 / capita/day.

The digestion period for average sludge is 63 days.

Considering the volume required for sludge and scum accumulated, the septic tank is designed for the detention period of 24 to 48 hours.

For more information on designing a septic system, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: civilconcept.com

At a lake house, more is at stake. Maintaining water quality is the primary concern with any water-adjacent sanitary sewage system. Lake homeowners have a responsibility to the nearby body of water.

Despite the higher call of duty, there should be no difference in your behavior at a residential home versus a lake home. For instance, in both houses, you would not pour chemicals down the drain, use the garbage disposal, or park near the septic tank. The biggest difference would be how often you perform maintenance on it since you’ll want to clean and empty lake home septic tanks more regularly.

Even then, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach for septic tank maintenance at a lake home. The type and cost of maintenance depend on the topography, presence of bedrock, the height of the water table, and type of soil.

There are multiple considerations when deciding on the type of system and its maintenance. Septic systems are often necessary for the lake homeowner due to the often rural locations of many lakes. Consult a local septic tank expert for personalized advice on the topic and remember to consider the septic system when buying, selling, or building your next lake home.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: lakehomes.com

Site Evaluation: There are two considerations to "perc test" or site evaluation:

1. the soil type and
2. projected sewage usage.

To determine your projected sewer usage, please check with your local health department or regulator agency. Please note: the site evaluation is done with a backhoe.

Soil Classification:

Soil classification is determined by the US Department of Agriculture Soil Conservation Classification System. The importance of soil classification should not be underestimated. If the soil is inaccurately classified, it could cause unnecessary delays and expense. Please consult with a soil expert before proceeding with your septic system design project.

Designing a Septic System:

Hire a septic system design engineer to design a septic system based on your house or building's plan; this will help to ensure that the septic system design meets all local regulations.

Department of Health Evaluation:

In most states, the Department of Health is the agency that regulates septic systems. This agency also reviews and approves and/or denies septic system design plans. The engineer that designed your septic system will have to not only submit the designs, but also the soil classification results and the "perc test" or site evaluation in order for the plans to be considered for approval.

Approval:

Congratulations! Your septic system design has been approved. If you followed the proper septic system design procedures, you should hear those words. If approved, the septic system engineer should give you a copy of the approved designs.

Now you have a basic understanding of the process for designing a septic system. For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: Septic.com

The simplest way to add to your septic tank while remaining connected to existing sewer lines is to simply add an additional septic tank. This gives your home a larger wastewater capacity, and gives your septic system more time to treat the wastewater before draining.

If you're adding a septic tank, first the correct placement needs to be determined, it should be between your current tank and your drain field (sometimes called a septic field line).

The ground for your new septic tank must be excavated using the dimensions of your septic tank as a guide. An excavator will be used to make an adequately sized hole, taking special care around the outlet of the older septic tank.

A 4-inch pipe will be used to connect the two septic tanks. The pipe will be placed into the inlet hole of your new septic tank before it is lowered into the ground. After your new septic tank has been lowered, the other end of the pipe will be inserted into your old septic tank's outlet hole. The pipe should hang over the two tank interiors by around 2 inches.

The hole around your new septic tank is then refilled with soil. The compactness of your soil will be checked using a vibrancy soil compactor.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: Backups

If you are experiencing a high level of plumbing backups, it's a sign that something is wrong with your septic system. It could be something as easy as a tiny repair, or as extensive as a tank replacement. Either way, you need an inspector to figure that out.

Healthy Grass

If your grass is greener over your septic area than it is in other parts of your yard, it's time to check your septic system. When a septic system begins to fail, it puts more water out into the ground which can enrich your plant life but can be dangerous for people.

Results of an Inspection

If your inspection turns up contaminated well water or irreparable damage to the septic tank itself, you will probably need a new system.

How to Maintain Your Septic System

You can make sure your septic system lasts longer by making sure to never flush tampons, paper towels, baby wipes, or really any foreign objects that cannot break down easily in your septic system.

Use a garbage disposal, if you have one, to help break down any food that will clog the pipes. Make sure you never put grease down the sink, as that can clog up the septic tank.

Find a laundry detergent that's safe for septic systems as well.

Small amounts of bleach are okay to have in your septic tank, but never flush medication, anti-freeze or harmful chemicals, as they damage the bacteria in your septic system which creates issues down the road.

If you have a sump pump, make sure that it is not hooked up to the septic system. Sump pumps put too much water into the septic system which can have adverse effects on how it breaks down the waste.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: listwithclever.com

If you are building a new septic system (including a conventional septic system or an innovative/alternative (I/A) system) or upgrading an existing one, there are Title 5 requirements that must be followed in order to prevent damage to human health and the environment.

System owner's responsibilities

Whether or not you are the person actually doing the construction, it is always the system owner's responsibility to ensure things are done in accordance with Title 5 regulations (310 CMR 15.000). If you have questions related to building or expanding a new Title 5 system, you should contact your local Board of Health directly as they are the primary regulatory authority for new construction.

For new construction of a system, the first step is to go to your local Board of Health as well as your local Building Department. You will need to obtain permits from both separately. You should initially provide each department with a verbal explanation of what you're proposing.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Mass.gov